Rice Noodle Making Craftsmanship
01 · Historical Records
The formation of Guilin rice noodles is directly related to the corridor position of the Hunan-Guangxi passage: rice was brought into northeastern Guangxi from the direction of Hunan and Jiangxi by water and by land, and the market towns and periodic markets around the old city separated the grinding of the slurry and the pressing of the noodles, the long simmering of the brine and the assembly of meat and vegetable bowls into distinct trades. Locally, rice noodles were first of all a street breakfast rather than a grand banquet dish, and this orientation made them value fresh noodles and serving blanched to order while making light of display; both the brine and the toppings had to be ready to take and use at any time.
02 · Core Techniques & Process
The craft of making Guilin rice noodles is one of the representative traditional rice-noodle making techniques of China; it originated in the old urban district of Guilin in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, and it is at present concentrated in the whole city's six urban districts and eleven counties (county-level cities), radiating to surrounding areas. Guilin City lies in northeastern Guangxi, at the southern end of the Hunan-Guangxi corridor, and has a subtropical climate with ample sunshine and rainfall all year round and fertile soil; its area of high-quality rice cultivation ranks first in the whole region, and it has long enjoyed the reputation of the "granary of northern Guangxi". Superior water quality and rice quality ensure the fresh, fine character of Guilin rice noodles and have fostered the development and transmission of the craft. Guilin rice noodles are a traditional flavoured snack made by dipping fresh noodles in hot water at 85-90 degrees Celsius for a few seconds, taking them out and draining them, serving them with various meat dishes such as braised beef, braised beef tripe and crisp fried pork (guoshao), pouring over a secret brine and scattering on seasonings such as soybeans, green peppers and aged garlic. Its making technique comprises four major stages and more than a hundred process steps, namely producing the fresh noodles, simmering the brine, preparing the auxiliary ingredients and assembling the finished bowl, of which making the noodles and simmering the brine are the most critical. To make the noodles, early indica rice, late indica rice and two-year-old rice are chosen as raw materials and blended in a certain proportion; after soaking they are ground into a slurry, and after draining and fermentation the mass is kneaded into a dough, pounded repeatedly in a stone mortar and pressed into noodle strands. Brine formulas are privately handed down and kept secret by each family; usually several dozen spices such as star anise, fennel and cinnamon are blended according to a secret formula and simmered with stock, and during the process Guilin specialities such as monk fruit are added to remove odours, lift the aroma, add sweetness and adjust the flavour. Rice noodles made by this craft are fragrant, mellow and glossy, clinging to the bowl, rich without being salty and fresh without being greasy; they also have such effects as strengthening the spleen, whetting the appetite, regulating qi and dispelling cold. Guilin rice noodles are much loved for being fresh, tasty and convenient to prepare, and restaurants named after Guilin rice noodles are found almost throughout the country. At present Guilin has more than 5,000 rice-noodle shops in the whole city and 3,400 enterprises and self-employed businesses producing raw materials and selling rice noodles, with more than 100,000 people employed in the trade. The craft of making Guilin rice noodles has a distinct regional character and has become part of the daily life of the people of Guilin; it is an important component of Guilin's food culture and an important vehicle for studying the history and folk culture of Guilin.
Archival Records of Process Steps
Its making technique comprises four major stages and more than a hundred process steps, namely producing the fresh noodles, simmering the brine, preparing the auxiliary ingredients and assembling the finished bowl, of which making the noodles and simmering the brine are the most critical.
Rice selection, blending and soaking-grinding
The opening stage of fresh-rice-noodle making: early-season indica, late-season indica and two-year aged rice are blended in fixed proportions, soaked and ground into slurry.
Filtration, fermentation and pounding
After filtering and fermenting, the slurry is kneaded into a dough and repeatedly pounded in a stone mortar to develop the toughness the noodle strands depend on.
Pressing into rice strands
The pounded dough is pressed into strands; the fineness of the strand and the yield of flour mark a maker's skill.
Braising the brine
The brine is built on stock with a private blend of aromatics and softened with luohan fruit, and becomes the flavour backbone of the dish.
Blanching and assembling the bowl
The fresh strands are dipped in hot water for a few seconds, drained, and served with braised beef and offal, crisp pork skin, brine and condiments.
03 · Regional Records & Related Items
All six urban districts and eleven counties (county-level cities) have retained the complete capacity to produce fresh noodles and to simmer brine, but their patterns differ: the old urban district is known for its dense shopfronts and for blanching and selling on the spot, while the counties mostly supply customers through family workshops and stalls on market days. The division between formulas lies mainly in the brine. Famous shops in the old city use stock as their base, with clearly layered spices; shops in the counties and the countryside value keeping quality and the cost of materials more, and lean towards a few common seasonings in their choice of materials. Not a few households keep an old brine going all year round, and what passes between master and apprentice is mostly the heat and the length of time rather than a written-out formula.
Other submitting regions for the same item: Rice Noodle Making Craftsmanship · Rice Noodle Making Craftsmanship.
04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding
At present, besides continuing the traditional master-apprentice transmission, the craft of making Guilin rice noodles is also taught in training classes set up at a number of vocational schools and social institutions, steadily training successors. Guilin rice noodles now sell well throughout Guangxi and reach the whole country and even overseas, driving the development of the local economy and playing a positive role in promoting social harmony and cultural exchange.
05 · Associated Representative Bearers
Representative bearers recorded under this item, organized by national nomination batch:
06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography
Sources
China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)
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