Hui Costume
01 · Historical Records
The dastar is a Persian word meaning a wrapped headcloth. It derives from the "dastar" that the founder of Islam, Muhammad, wrapped around his head when he first spread Islam; its colors are mainly white and yellow.
02 · Core Techniques & Process
Hui dress has distinct ethnic characteristics; its main items include the vest (kanjian), the dastar head wrap, maisaihai socks, the zhunbai robe, the prayer cap, and the head covering (gaitou). Vests are made of cotton, silk, gauze, hemp and other materials, and come in lined, padded and unlined varieties; they can be worn in both winter and summer, as underwear or as outerwear, make it convenient to roll up one's sleeves for the minor ablution and for work, and do not easily let one catch cold. Maisaihai socks is an Arabic term meaning leather socks; made of processed cowhide, they are clean, bright, sturdy and durable. Islam requires Muslims to perform the minor ablution before each of the five daily prayers; if one wears maisaihai socks, one may skip the washing of the feet in the minor ablution, simply wiping the socks from toe to heel with a wet hand instead. Zhunbai is also an Arabic term, meaning a robe. Made of cotton, synthetic fiber or woolen cloth, it comes in unlined, lined, padded and leather varieties; its cut resembles a modern overcoat, with a collar like that of a uniform, and its colors are mostly black, white or gray. The prayer cap, also called the Huihui cap, is a small brimless round cap. When Hui Muslims prostrate themselves in prayer, the forehead and tip of the nose must touch the ground, so wearing a brimless cap is more convenient; this gradually developed into a dress custom. Prayer caps are mainly white or black, with gray, blue and green also seen. White Huihui caps are mostly made of cotton cloth, some woven from white thread, and are worn in autumn and winter. Because of differences in region and religious sect, prayer caps come in several types: besides the round cap, there are also flat-cornered caps and pointed six-sided caps. The gaitou (head covering) is the traditional headscarf of Hui and other Muslim women; it covers the hair, ears and neck, leaving the face exposed. Islam classifies women's hair as part of the "awrah", the parts of the body to be concealed; the Quran stresses that Muslim women must "lower their gaze and conceal their private parts". In order to cover the hair, and at the same time to keep out sand and stay clean, the custom of Muslim women wearing the head covering gradually took shape.
Wrapping the Dastar headcloth
The headcloth is called dastar, white or yellow, a form carried over from the early Islamic era.
The ablution before prayer
Ablution precedes each of the five daily prayers, shaping how sleeves and socks are designed.
Leather socks that spare washing the feet
Leather socks spare the washing of the feet in the ablution, a wipe from toe to heel sufficing.
The brimless prayer cap
A small brimless cap suits prostration; other shapes vary by region and school.
The women's veil
The veil covers hair, ears and neck while leaving the face clear, for modesty and against sand.
03 · Regional Records & Related Items
Although Hui dress in the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region has a basic form recognized nationwide, specific styles still diverge according to local environment and religious custom. In the Hetao and irrigation districts, where winds are strong and dust plentiful, the dastar head wrap is mostly white or yellow, and its wrapping is particular: it must shield the head and face while still allowing one to bend down in prayer. In the Helan Mountains and the central arid zone, where the climate is colder, vests and the zhunbai robe are mostly lined with cotton or made of leather, and prayer caps are mostly thick round caps woven from white thread. Young Muslims in concentrated urban settlements prefer plain dark small round caps and dark zhunbai robes, which are convenient for going about their business. The various religious sects are not entirely uniform in the form of the prayer cap either: besides the round cap there are flat-cornered caps and pointed six-sided caps, mainly white and black but interspersed with gray, blue and green. White Huihui caps are made of cotton cloth, some woven from white thread, specifically for keeping warm in autumn and winter. It can be seen that the differences in dress are largely determined jointly by use, climate and manner of prayer, rather than by purely aesthetic choice.
04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding
Hui dress in the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region is a vivid portrayal of the religious belief, living environment and cultural activities of the Hui people, an important vehicle for the transmission of Hui culture, and possesses a certain academic value.
06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography
Sources
China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)
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