Lhoba Costume
01 · Historical Records
The form of Lhoba ethnic dress corresponds directly to its mode of production in southeastern Tibet: the people have long engaged in gathering and hunting, with no fixed abode, so clothing had to be carried on the person yet also hold the gathered goods. A one-piece homespun cloth without collar, sleeves or pockets was therefore the most sensible choice. The cloth is made from plant fibers such as the bark of daphne shrubs, known locally as danu; stripping the bark, beating it, spinning the yarn and weaving the cloth are all done in the mountains. The dyed cloth is mostly an interweaving of black, red and white — dark in color and thick in texture, precisely the most durable coloring under the temperature swings of the plateau's days and nights.
02 · Core Techniques & Process
Lhoba ethnic dress is sewn from homespun cloth woven from plant fibers such as "danu" (daphne bark), mostly in an intermixture of black, red or white. When worn by a man, the long strip of cloth is draped diagonally across the back, one corner of the garment laid over the left shoulder, then passed from left to right under the arm to wrap one and a half times around the body, joining the shoulder-laid corner at the right chest, producing the effect of bared shoulder and arm. The lower length of the garment is then folded up to the knee, a bamboo needle serves in place of buttons, and the belt is drawn tight. This garment, lacking collar, sleeves and pockets, is the Lhoba people's only upper garment, worn year-round: men, women, old and young wear it by day and take it off at night to use as a coverlet. Because the Lhoba have long lived in the wilds with no fixed dwelling, women's garments are also used to carry food and belongings, and when going out, children can be placed inside the clothing. Women go barefoot throughout the year; some men wear tall boots made of hemp or wool. Everyday ornaments worn by both men and women include earrings, necklaces and bracelets. It preserves the ethnic character well — natural, authentic, handsome and dignified — satisfying the Lhoba people's love of beauty.
Diagonal wrapping and bamboo-needle fastening
The cloth is wrapped diagonally, wound once and a half around the arm, folded to the knee and pinned with bamboo needles.
Processing dhanu bark into cloth
Dhanu bark is pounded to remove the gum, then spun and woven into a coarse cloth that stands up to cold and brush.
Three types of rattan hat
Men's rattan hats come in three types, each cut for a different task: sunshade in the open, rain cover in the forest.
Order of dressing before setting out
Hat first, then the wrapped cloth, then ornaments; what is gathered goes into the garment itself.
03 · Regional Records & Related Items
Lhoba men wear rattan caps woven from rattan and bamboo strips, which fall into three types: Boba, Gaga and Hengba. Lhoba ethnic dress is closely tied to the Lhoba people's long-standing gathering-and-hunting way of life and to local climatic conditions; it is both a crystallization of the wisdom of the Lhoba people and a miniature of their social development.
Other submitting regions for the same item: Lhoba Costume.
04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding
The most precious thing about Lhoba dress is that it compresses an entire way of life into a few garments: worn by day, unbound at night as a coverlet; on a trip out, the clothing both protects the body and holds goods, and when necessary a child is tucked inside as well. This multipurpose use is not mere frugality but a solution forced by a long life in the wilds; it interlocks with the local gathering-and-hunting mode of production and climatic conditions, and has therefore become one of the most stable cultural markers of this people. The coexistence of bare feet and tall boots, the three types of rattan cap, and the earrings and bracelets worn alike by men and women all follow the same logic: what one wears is determined by what one is going out to do, not by whether it looks good.
06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography
Sources
China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)
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