Daur Costume
01 · Historical Records
Before the 17th century, fishing and hunting were the traditional production activities of the Daur people, and the raw materials for Daur costume at that time were chosen mainly from animal hides. In the mid-17th century the Daur people migrated south, with part of the population settling in the Nenjiang River valley and in Hulunbuir. After the southward migration agriculture developed rapidly and cultural exchange with other ethnic groups grew ever more frequent, so textiles gradually became another important raw material for Daur costume. Leather trousers were made with the hide side turned outward and the fur facing inward.
02 · Core Techniques & Process
Hulunbuir City in the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region is one of the main areas where Daur costume is distributed. The Daur people have a long history. Everyday garments made of cotton cloth appeared, together with ceremonial dress cut from silk and satin with great attention to style and workmanship, and embroidery gradually became an indispensable ornament on the clothing of Daur women and children. Daur costume in Hulunbuir centers on robe garments. By function it comprises hats, robes, trousers, boots, gloves, and various accessories; by material it falls into two main types, garments of animal hide and garments of textile. Winter leather robes were made from roe-deer hide whose fine underfur had only just grown fully in late autumn and early winter. Spring and autumn leather robes used roe-deer hide taken after the animal had shed its winter underfur in spring and grown new hair. Tall boots were made from tanned hide of a wild animal. Fur hats were sewn from the whole scalp of a roe deer, skinned off and tanned. The Daur people possessed excellent hide-dressing skills. Once dressed, the pelts are soft and of good quality, and garments made from such pelts were not only popular among the Daur themselves but also deeply favored by other northern ethnic groups. The cloth long robes of the Hulunbuir Daur open on the left, with hems reaching the instep, and are mostly blue or dark gray. The formal robe worn over the long gown is long-bodied, with a front opening and wide sleeves, slightly shorter than the gown itself; it is mostly made of silk and satin, with borders of various patterns set along the edges and cuffs. Women's versions emphasize colored patterns, while men's favor dark, plain fabrics. The traditional culture and the modes of production and life of the Daur people have given birth to Daur costume in a great variety of styles.
A robe-centred costume system
The Daur costume of Hulunbuir centres on the robe, with hats, trousers, boots, gloves and ornaments arranged around it and made of either hide or cloth.
Choosing hide by season
Winter robes use roe hide with the coat just grown in late autumn, spring and autumn robes hide taken after the spring moult; the growth of the hair decides the warmth.
A hat made from a whole head skin
A fur hat is sewn from the untanned whole head skin of a roe deer, hair outward, ears included, with openings left for the wearer’s own ears.
Tall boots of soft leather
Knee-high boots are tanned from soft hide with stiffened soles, keeping out snow and ice; the skill lies in tanning until the skin stays supple.
Leather trousers with the fur inward
Trousers are cut from tanned hide with the fur turned inward against the leg, protecting the rider from chafing through a long day in the saddle.
Cloth gowns and formal over-robes
The cloth gown opens at the left and reaches the instep, in blue or dark grey; the formal over-robe is shorter, wider-sleeved and silk, edged with patterned bands.
03 · Regional Records & Related Items
Daur costume is a system of dress that the Daur people gradually formed in accordance with the geographical environment, climatic conditions, customs and habits, and economic, cultural, and other factors of the regions in which they live.
04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding
These garments not only accord with the Daur people's habits of production and daily life but also embody their aesthetic consciousness and historical memory; they are vivid testimony to cultural exchange and integration among multiple ethnic groups, and they carry considerable historical, artistic, social, and cultural value.
05 · Associated Representative Bearers
Representative bearers recorded under this item, organized by national nomination batch:
06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography
Sources
China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)
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