Juzhuangxiju Making Craftsmanship
01 · Historical Records
Since the establishment of the guard and the founding of the city in 1404 AD, Tianjin rapidly rose as a commercial hub. As its economy gradually developed, opera and quyi (folk vocal arts) flourished, and theatrical 'wardrobe' items such as opera costumes, kuitou, and opera boots developed accordingly.
02 · Core Techniques & Process
The craft of making theatrical boots is a component of the broader craft of theatrical costume and prop making; Tianjin's theatrical-boot craft originated from the development of Tianjin's theatre. The characteristics of Tianjin theatrical boots are manifested in three respects: the raw materials used, the making procedures, and the quality standards. First, Tianjin theatrical boots use purely natural materials. The upper fabric is pure-silk satin produced in Hangzhou; the lining is pure cotton cloth; the sole uses a special paper; and the sole leather is high-grade cowhide—handsome, sturdy, and durable. When making the upper, one first lays out the material, cuts it, glues on the lining, glues on the face fabric, then—as needed—produces various decorative patterns, dries them in the sun, and stitches them. Sole making includes making the stitching base thread (twisted from 24 fine hemp strands), cutting the sole support, and more than 40 other process steps, after which the boots are arranged, shaped, and air-dried, and the sole is brushed with white powder. Every process step has strict quality standards and is completed entirely by hand. To ensure the on-stage performance effect, every pair of opera boots is custom-made according to the actor's foot shape and requirements, so each work is 'unique.' After nearly a century of transmission, the trade has summed up four characteristics, namely the 'Four Strictnesses': strictly pure handwork, strict procedures, strict coordination with the character's makeup and costume, and strict adherence to the actor's requirements in making. The Tianjin theatrical-boot craft has a history of over a hundred years. It lets theatrical actors—especially renowned Peking opera performers—'shine at the feet,' lending traditional operatic performance richer artistic flavor, and has contributed to the prosperous development of Chinese theatrical art.
Archival Record of Process Steps
The characteristics of Tianjin theatrical boots are manifested in three respects: the raw materials used, the making procedures, and the quality standards.
03 · Regional Records & Related Items
The craft of making theatrical boots is a component of the broader craft of theatrical costume and prop making; Tianjin's theatrical-boot craft originated from the development of Tianjin's theatre. Its making accords with the stage habits of the various northern operatic genres, with thick-sole, fast-boot (kuaixue), and chaofang (audience-boot) styles all complete. The characteristics of Tianjin theatrical boots are manifested in three respects—the raw materials used, the making procedures, and the quality standards: first, Tianjin theatrical boots use purely natural materials.
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04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding
This item is aimed at stage actors and the things it requires are small yet refined; it is transmitted mostly through the traditional master–apprentice model, and now has five generations of inheritors. Studying and transmitting this craft has positive significance for carrying on and developing the distinctive mode of expression of traditional theatre, for perceiving its artistic characteristics that integrate decorative beauty, color beauty, form beauty, and rhythmic beauty, and for letting domestic and foreign audiences gain a comprehensive understanding of Chinese traditional culture.
05 · Associated Representative Bearers
Representative bearers recorded under this item, organized by national nomination batch:
- Li Rongsen 01-0194
- Sun Ying 03-1340
- Li Jizong
- Zhang Hua
06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography
Sources
China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)
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