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Ditan Weaving Craftsmanship

Ⅷ-110Traditional CraftsmanshipNantongshirugao, JiangsuBatch 5 (2021)Extension Item

01 · Historical Records

The roots of Rugao silk carpets lie in the Jiangnan silk-weaving industry; both raw materials and techniques came with the water transport. In the mid-to-late Qing dynasty, silk carpets made after famous paintings became fashionable in Shanghai, Suzhou, and surrounding areas, then spread along the river to the Tongzhou area and took root in Rugao. During the Republican period, dedicated silk-carpet workshops already existed within Rugao city, and the division of labor between painting drafts and craft diagrams had already taken shape at that time.

02 · Core Techniques & Process

The Rugao silk carpet weaving technique uses high-quality wild tussar silk as raw material and is woven with a unique hand-knotting method, known within the trade as the "hand-knotted silk carpet craft." The technique is distributed in Rugao City, Nantong City, Jiangsu Province, which sits at the lower reaches of the Yangtze estuary, bordered by the Yangtze to the south and facing the Yellow Sea to the east, across the river from Zhangjiagang, with convenient transport. Rugao is rich in culture and abounds in skilled craftsmen; its traditional handicrafts are numerous and unbroken, providing abundant nourishment for the transmission and development of the Rugao silk carpet weaving technique. The Rugao silk carpet weaving technique comprises eleven process steps: draft design, drawing the craft diagram, sampling and color matching of the silk carpet, dyeing, splicing the silk, carpet weaving, pile leveling, and finishing; among these the carpet-weaving step is the most complex, including mounting the warp, making the twist, laying the foundation, drawing the pattern, knot-weaving the carpet (including passing the weft and tamping with the rake), making the hanging knots, and cutting the warp to take it off the loom. The Rugao silk carpet weaving technique has two core elements. First is the use of the "programmatic craft diagram," through which the designers, according to the characteristics of the original painting and a unique language of solid and dashed lines, express the elements of the craft. Second is that the carpet-weaving artisans, through individual hand knots, compose various lines and planes, achieving the different effects of the painting's color separation, graded shading, tonal variation, and color leaping. Owing to its unique and superb technique, the finished silk carpets have accurate forms and rich expressiveness, with restrained and substantial colors, and can fully bring out the artistic character of works by painters of various schools, winning wide acclaim in art circles. In Rugao, the hand-knotted silk carpet weaving technique was already popular in the late Ming and early Qing. The item is transmitted generation to generation through the master-apprentice relationship. The inheritors are mainly of two kinds: one consists of technicians who chiefly create and design silk carpet painting drafts and make craft diagrams, and also supervise the carpet-weaving flow and main process steps to ensure the artistic effect and quality of the silk carpets; the other consists of weavers who have thoroughly mastered the complete set of carpet-weaving process steps and can comprehensively and flexibly command its unique craft. The Rugao silk carpet weaving technique possesses a deep deposit of regional culture; it is a vivid expression of the local people's cultural creativity, a product of the combination of traditional craft and modern art, and possesses historical, cultural, and artistic value that cannot be ignored.

Archival Record of Process Steps

The Rugao silk carpet weaving technique comprises eleven process steps: draft design, drawing the craft diagram, sampling and color matching of the silk carpet, dyeing, splicing the silk, carpet weaving, pile leveling, and finishing; among these the carpet-weaving step is the most complex, including mounting the warp, making the twist, laying the foundation, drawing the pattern, knot-weaving the carpet (including passing the weft and tamping with the rake), making the hanging knots, and cutting the warp to take it off the loom.

Drawing the weaving diagram

Translating the painting into a weaveable diagram, where tonal depth is rendered as the density of solid and broken lines.

Sample matching and dyeing

A small sample is made first so that the colour separations, gradations and jumps required by the painting are matched before full production.

Splicing the silk

Silk threads of different hues are spliced into bundles that can be drawn on demand without visible joins.

Warping and knotting the base

Warping, spacing and knotted foundation weaving lay the density that will determine the carpet's thickness and stiffness.

Passing the weft and beating it down

The weft is passed through the warp and then beaten tight with a comb, the most demanding pair of movements in carpet weaving.

Levelling and finishing

After the loom, the pile is levelled, trimmed and finished with borders and fringe.

03 · Regional Records & Related Items

Rugao silk carpets are divided by painting tradition into two main streams: fine-brush figure-landscape and flower-bird pattern. The former emphasizes the graded shading of color separation and shading transitions, the latter the leaping sense of tonal variation and color leaping. Within the workshop, tasks are assigned according to the complexity of the draft: simple patterns go to experienced hands, while large dense-pattern pieces are completed by a master with apprentices, so that within the same craft a natural division into fine and coarse levels of work emerges.

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04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding

Between the painting draft and the craft diagram there is a set of unwritten craft language: the depth of ink is translated into the density of solid and dashed lines, and the weaver then determines the direction of stitch and the color matching from the diagram. Once the diagram and the weaving fall out of step, the finished product loses the original painting's gradations; old artisans would rather draw the draft a bit clumsily than let the weaver improvise. At present, chemical-fiber machine-woven carpets have the advantage in both price and supply speed, and the audience for hand-knotted silk carpets has shrunk to the collectible and decorative category; technicians who can independently complete draft design and also supervise the complete weaving process are now few and far between.

05 · Associated Representative Bearers

Representative bearers recorded under this item, organized by national nomination batch:

06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography

  1. Ditan Weaving Craftsmanship (Nantongshirugao, Jiangsu) · China ICH Official Project Archive

Sources

China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)

Read the official ihchina.cn record ↗

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