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Suzhou Embroidery

Ⅶ-18Traditional Fine ArtsChangzhou, JiangsuBatch 5 (2021)Extension ItemFeatured

01 · Historical Records

Changzhou random-stitch embroidery was created in 1912 by Yang Shouyu in Changzhou City, Jiangsu Province. In her early years Yang Shouyu studied both painting and embroidery; drawing on the light-and-dark modeling and brushwork of sketch and oil painting, she broke with the established convention of traditional satin stitch — “setting the stitches in rows, laying the threads close side by side” — using the needle to paint and silk thread to convey meaning, and created embroidered surfaces of crisscrossing threads, long and short used together. Her pioneering works “Head of an Old Man” and “Maiden and Swan” once caused a sensation in the embroidery and painting worlds of China.

02 · Core Techniques & Process

Changzhou random-stitch embroidery is an important school of Chinese Su embroidery, created in 1912 by Yang Shouyu in Changzhou City, Jiangsu Province, with a history of over a century to this day. Changzhou random-stitch embroidery abandons the traditional satin-stitch method of “setting the stitches in rows, laying the threads close side by side”; guided by the principles of sketch and oil painting, it uses the needle to paint and silk thread to convey meaning, creating embroidered works whose surfaces are built from crisscrossing threads, long and short used together. Viewed up close, its stitching appears disordered; seen from a distance, the images are strikingly true to life, as if alive. The Changzhou random-stitch embroidery works pioneered by Yang Shouyu, such as “Head of an Old Man” and “Maiden and Swan,” once caused a sensation in the embroidery and painting worlds of China. A complete Changzhou random-stitch embroidery work must pass through numerous complex and exacting process steps, including designing the composition, selecting the ground fabric, laying a base with sparse stitches, working dense stitches for the fine detail, and adding color to build up form. Compared with traditional embroidery, Changzhou random-stitch embroidery has two main features. First, its stitch technique varies flexibly with the embroiderer's surroundings and state of mind. Its stitches include the large random stitch, small random stitch, vertical cross stitch, horizontal cross stitch, diagonal random stitch, fiber-pulling stitch, loose-overlap stitch, and loop stitch. Its stitches exhaust every variation of length and thickness, direction, crossing angle, and of the embroiderer's surroundings and mood. Second, its layering of color wins its effects through light. First a base is laid with mixed tones; second, mixed colors are overlaid in stitching; third, the states of color are adjusted; and finally the whole is given an overall finishing polish. As a result, its embroidered pieces can present shifting light and shadow with a radiance of their own, producing different impressions from different viewing angles. Changzhou random-stitch embroidery requires the embroiderer to possess considerable painting skill, so that the embroidered work achieves a space for secondary creation. The same artist, creating the same subject in a different state of mind, can produce a markedly different effect. Its technical means have expanded the expressive power of embroidered surface works. Changzhou random-stitch embroidery breaks through the technical methods of traditional embroidery, displaying the remarkable power of innovation in traditional fine art, embodying the vision and feeling of Chinese folk artists who fuse ancient and modern and connect China with the wider world, and enriching the variety of Chinese embroidery. Its affinity with Western art gives it an advantage in reaching the world, making it a bond in international cultural exchange.

Archival Records of Process Steps

A complete Changzhou random-stitch embroidery work must pass through numerous complex and exacting process steps, including designing the composition, selecting the ground fabric, laying a base with sparse stitches, working dense stitches for the fine detail, and adding color to build up form.

Old Man's Head and Girl with Swan

Yang Shouyu's Old Man's Head and Girl with Swan astonished embroidery and painting circles; later works were given as state gifts or collected by museums.

Large and small random stitches, cross stitches

Its stitches vary endlessly in length, thickness, direction and crossing angle: large and small random stitches, vertical and horizontal cross stitches, oblique random, hair-pulling, loose-pile and loop stitches.

Mixed-tone grounding and colour adjustment

Colour is laid in four stages—mixed-tone ground, mixed-colour overlay, colour adjustment, overall harmonising—so the piece shifts and glows with the viewing angle.

Sparse grounding and dense finishing

A complete piece passes through designing, choosing the ground, sparse grounding, dense finishing and colour shaping, each in a base, expressive and balancing layer of mixed-tone threads.

03 · Regional Records & Related Items

It is now distributed mainly across Jiangsu Province, with Changzhou City as its particular representative, and has spread to the Hong Kong and Macao regions and to overseas Chinese communities. Each work is divided into a base layer, an expressive layer, and a balancing layer, each executed with mixed-color threads.

Other submitting regions for the same item: Suzhou Embroidery · Suzhou Embroidery · Suzhou Embroidery · Suzhou Embroidery.

04 · Cultural Value & Contemporary Safeguarding

Its representative works “A Happy Old Man,” “Portrait of Reagan,” and “How Many Flowers Have Fallen” have been selected as state gifts or collected by major museums and art galleries. Changzhou random-stitch embroidery is transmitted mainly through master-apprentice instruction and oral teaching with intuitive understanding. At present this project is in a sound state of continuity, having formed a transmission community of more than 200 people, along with multiple studios and exhibition halls. Its works are rich in color, clearly layered, strongly textured, and visually dazzling, much loved by the general public, with high artistic and appreciative value.

05 · Associated Representative Bearers

Representative bearers recorded under this item, organized by national nomination batch:

06 · Authoritative Sources & Bibliography

  1. Suzhou Embroidery (Changzhou, Jiangsu) · China ICH Official Project Archive

Sources

China Intangible Cultural Heritage Network (ihchina.cn)

Read the official ihchina.cn record ↗

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